Japanese Embroidery

Japanese Embroidery Frames

2011-11-08T10:36:00.002Z

Good news, we have a new supplier of JE hardwood frames in the UK.

You can buy directly from the website here. I worked with Dave through the prototype stages and am using one of his frames for my new piece so know they are good to use. Check out the site for more information and prices. (I've updated the link, should be working now)

Shizuka Kusano Japanese Embroidery Exhibition

2011-06-03T09:08:00.002+01:00

All photos in this post were taken by me, designs copyright of Shizuka Kusano

Well, we went to Edinburgh to see the exhibition and we had a fabulous time. It took us 4.5 hours to get there and the same to get home so a very long day but worth every minute. Kusano san was charming and kind and she and her students welcomed us with open arms, answering our endless questions and enquiries. Mrs Tarahara, wife of the Japanese Consul General in Edinburgh, was sporting a beautiful obi embroidered by Kusano san and helped very much by doing a fine job of interpreting for us.

I was moved beyond words by some of the work and feel proud and privileged that I got to see the first exhibition of Kusano sans work outside of Japan. I hope this is not the last time we will see her in Europe and if you ever get the chance to visit an exhibition of her work take it.

This is the link to Kusano sans website - with some very nice pictures, and this is the link to the article on the official opening of the exhibition from the Edinburgh Reporter. More lovely pictures.

AND.... we were allowed to take pictures, here is just a small selection of the 100 or more I took during our visit.

Mrs Tarahara's beautiful obi.

Monster Rocks

2011-05-08T16:19:00.006+01:00

Due to a slight mis-hearing incident this lovely design from the Japanese Embroidery Center is known to our group as Monster Rocks. It's actually called Autumn Flowers Amongst the Rocks. This is another of the pieces embroidered by one of our advanced students, this time it is Sue Ebbs who deserves the credit for the beautiful work. Enjoy

Japanese embroidery exhibition in Edinburgh

2011-04-21T10:26:00.005+01:00

Shizuka Kusano, author of The Fine Art of the Kimono is holding a two day exhibition in Edinburgh. Click on the image below to download the PDF.

Kusano san will be there during the exhibition (I don't have exact times), as will some of her students. This will be a fabulous chance to see in real life what most of us have only seen in her books. See you there??

Video from JEC

2011-03-30T22:28:00.006+01:00

The Japanese Embroidery Center in Atlanta have just uploaded this promotional video to Youtube

Shokko Flower

2011-03-26T22:15:00.005Z

Since Kurenai-kai was set up by the late Master Saito many beautiful designs have been designed and developed by him and successive generations of the artists and designers at the centre. I am lucky enough to have a number of the books they have published and spend many hours just looking at all the beautiful pictures. However, no matter how good the photograph nothing can quite capture the beauty of the metallic and silk threads as seen in real life. Shokko Flower is a piece I've only ever seen in books until Wendy brought her version with her to class a couple of weeks ago. While not as big as Flower Cart this is another stunning piece of work from one of our very talented embroiderers. Thank you Wendy for allowing me to share with with you all.

Advanced Embroidery

2011-03-21T22:37:00.006Z

The week before last Japanese Embroidery UK ran one of their twice yearly classes which I attended as a student. I go to these classes once a year, it's nice to spend the time reflecting on my own embroidery and to get help and advice from my Sensei and other advanced embroiderers. Normally classes last 5 days, this time however we had an extra weekend for tutors and advanced embroiderers.

This was a wonderful opportunity to sit and discuss new design ideas, look at lots of pictures, and to admire all the work that my embroidery friends have produced since I saw them last.

I have more pictures to share of all the work they have been doing but here are two to drool over.

Flower Cart, embroidered by Wendy Weir. This piece is huge, it's about 3ft long.

And ... Arriving Treasure Ships embroidered by Tanya Quicke. This piece, while not as big as the Flower Cart is still impressive, every piece of colour you see in the photo is embroidered.

Japan Tsumani

2011-03-15T11:35:00.002Z

As with many natural disasters sometimes it is difficult to express in words how these things affect us and our friends and family. I am happy to say that my friends and families of friends in Japan seem to have escaped with their lives which makes them (and me) very lucky indeed. If you would like to help in a small way the Red Cross have set up an appeal - of course you can donate to other causes instead if you would like. Sadly all to many to choose from.

Antique Textile Fair

2011-02-21T10:27:00.007Z

Japanese Embroidery UK will be exhibiting at the Antique Textile Fair in Manchester on 6th March. For those of you who are interested in Kimono and Japanese textiles, Sheila, from here, will be attending will a stand overflowing with beautiful kimono for sale. The fair is run by The Textile Society and is a must for enthusiasts interested in buying antique and vintage costumes and textiles to collect, wear or discover. The selection is vast with 130 stands from, the UK, Europe and worldwide, selling Oriental & Eastern European costumes & textiles; English costumes & textiles, fans, lace and linens as well as plenty of vintage clothes & textiles.

Harikuyo - Festival of Broken Needles

2011-02-08T10:17:00.001Z

Stitchin fingers are having an event to celebrate Harikuyo where lots of embroiderers and textile workers are uploading pictures to celebrate the day. Why not check them out, and while you're doing that take a moment to clean or think about your needles (or other tools) which have served you well over the last year.

Chrysanthemum obi

2011-01-29T12:39:00.007Z

I was sent these photos from Sheila of Kimono Magic. It was amongst the wonderful kimono and obi spotted at an event she attended to celebrate Japans national dress. I was going to save them for the next post, but it is so unspeakably beautiful that I couldn't wait to share it with you.

Follow the links on the photos to see more from the event.

The beauty of kimono (and obi)

2011-01-22T13:13:00.001Z

This is the first in what I plan to be a series of posts showing photos of kimono and obi old and new. The come from various places on the web and have been used with the owners permission. No long disscussions on how these are being worn or what kind of kimono they are. Just lots of pictures to celebrate The Art of the Kimono. Pictures are linked back to the original source, click on them to see more. First - something old and something new (well acually the other way round, but you get the idea).

Happy Holidays

2010-12-21T10:08:00.001Z

Happy Holiday Greetings from all at

Japanese Embroidery UK

Gold leafing on silk

2010-10-14T17:00:00.001+01:00

A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to take part in a gold leafing workshop with Midori Matsushima. This is not the standard gold leafing as we in the west understand it, but the art of Kinsai - gold leafing on silk. We prepared a piece of silk with gold leafing and once the embroidery is completed it will be made into a fan. For those of you who read Threads Across the Web, Carol did a series of posts on this when she attended a workshop with Midori earlier in the year - you'll find the details here. This form of gold leafing is used to decorate silk for kimono or other textiles and can be used in conjunction with yuzen dying or embroidery. One of the things that struck me most during the workshop is how modern materials have been used to replace or work with traditional tools. Rather than using traditional paper to make the cloud designs we used sticky back plastic. This had the various patterns we would need printed on it, so our first task was to cut out all the pieces very accurately. Both the positive and negative sides of some of these pieces would be used. The brushes on the other hand are hand made, an art in itself, sadly dieing out. Midori demonstrated how to use out sticky patterns as masks and how to use the brush and a blue metallic mixed with glue into a very think substance to form the clouds. This needed a very light touch to build up the layers of colour from dark to light. Harder than it looks! I'd have liked to get a more even shading, but I think they look OK for a first try. The branches of the cherries were made using a mix of gold and silver leaf. We used another sticky mask to protect the rest of the silk and used the same type of gold and silver technique as we used for the clouds. The next task was to put some gold and silver sprinkles over the whole of the piece. To do this we had spread glue over the whole of the silk - given how careful and precious we are of our silk when embroidering this felt really odd.

We used large and small gold and silver sprinkles.

This is the completed piece. Difficult to see just how much the metallics shine but they do look lovely.

Next job is to complete the embroidery, I'm guessing it'll be a while, but once I start I'll blog progress over on www.nejiribana.co.uk

This is the example of the completed piece which Midori brought to class.

For anyone who is interested in adding a new dimension to their textiles I would really recommend learning this technique from Midori. Check out her gallery of work.

Exhibition - Japanese embroidery and Japanese beading

2010-08-30T10:28:00.005+01:00

Japanese Embroidery UK will be exhibiting at The Stitch and Creative Craft Show at Manchester Central (GMEX) from 3rd - 5th September. If you are planning a visit please come along and say hello. You can find more details here.

Kusudama and Yoyo san will both be there.

A couple of our members also study Japanese beading with JEC. This year they will have some of their pieces on display and will also be demonstrating their stunning work.

Glasses case, Calm flow, and Poppy Purse photos courtesy of Carol-Anne.

International Kimono Fan Club

2010-08-18T09:25:00.004+01:00

For those kimono fans out there in blogland - Ichiro from Ichiroya in Japan has set up this great page on facebook the International Kimono Fan Club. The page in in English and Japanese. Lots of interesting articles and information on kimono, their construction, wear, and fabrics. Ichiro is also posting details of the Kimono de Jack events which have taken off very fast in Japan and are now being held in many places. These are social events where people meet wearing kimono - details of events are posted mainly through twitter. Enjoy

Living Treasures of Japan

2010-08-04T13:29:00.006+01:00

Indigo dyed hemp cloth. No embroidery here, but this video wonderful. With thanks to National Geographic who produced this film. There are other films in the series National Living Treasures - you'll find them all on You Tube.

shou chiku bai - three friends of winter

2010-06-20T08:56:00.015+01:00

pine, bamboo, and plum (ume) blossom. Since ancient times these three plants have been symbols of longevity, friendship, strength, and integrity. Over time they have become common subjects in Chinese and Japanese painting, calligraphy, and textiles, becoming an expression of celebration and joy, especially in the New Year season.

PINE - shou - showing abundant green even in the fiercest of winter they have been a symbol of long life in China since ancient times. They also represent friendship and constancy during times of adversity.

Antique fukusa - embroidered with gold, silver, and silk threads. From the authors collection

BAMBOO - chiku - remains mostly green through the winter. Unlike the pine, however, the stalk of the bamboo is hollow, which came to symbolize tolerance and open-mindedness. The flexibility and strength of the bamboo stalk also came to represent the human values of cultivation and integrity in which one yields but does not break.

Pre WWII fukusa from Ichiroya - woven and embroidered

PLUM (ume) - bai - renowned for bursting into a riot of blossoms in the dead of winter. Its subtle fragrance spills forth at one of the coldest times of the year, making it difficult to go unnoticed. Though not be as striking as the cherry blossom, they manage to exude an otherworldly exquisiteness and beautiful elegance during the desolation of winter. The demeanour and character of the plum tree thereby serves as a metaphor for inner beauty and humble display under adverse conditions.

Antique fukusa from Ichiroya - embroidered

Shou-chiku-bai are found in pictures in every way you can imagine. They are on kimono, futons, carrying cloths, purses, and just about everything to be found in daily life. In Japan the crane and tortoise also symbolise long life, the crane is said to live for 1000 years the tortoise 10,000. Sometimes these characters are combined with shou chiku bai and sometimes, as in the fukusa above, it is combined with other myths and legends.

The fukusa above the crane appears with a rake and broom which symbolize Uba and Ju from the Legend of Takasago.

The JEC and Kurenai kai have a number of designs which feature Shou chiku bai. To finish this post I'd like to share two lovely examples of one of these pieces, Mile High, by two of my fellow Japanese embroidery students Jennifer Orchard and Valerie Brooklyn.

It's cherry blossom time

2010-03-06T11:12:00.006Z

Well, not quite here in NW England, but spring does seem to be just round the corner so in honour of the cherry blossom season which will soon be upon us, here are just a few links to some sites where you can track its progress. If you search the web you will find many, many more.

Macon Georgia's Cherry Blossom Festival

2010 Japan Cherry Blossom Forecast - from Go Japan

The Bloom of Cherry Blossoms - JNTO

Have fun and happy cherry blossom viewing.

Meisen Kimono - on line exhibition

2010-02-11T11:33:00.003Z

Marcuson & Hall have a wonderful on-line exhibition of Meisen Kimono, well worth checking out. Click on the image to visit the exhibition.

Harikuyo - Festival of Broken Needles

2010-02-08T00:03:00.003Z

The Festival of Broken Needles, harikuyo, has taken place in Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples all over Japan on February 8th for hundreds of years. While memorial services are more usually held for the spirits of the dead, there is an old Shinto belief that inanimate objects, as well as living beings, have a soul and spirit. The animists believe that to simply discard a tool that has served you well is disrespectful would anger the object's soul. Tailors, embroiderers and other needleworkers gather their worn and broken needles from the previous year and take them to the temple. Prayers of respect and thanks giving are offered. The needles are pushed into slabs of tofu or other soft substances to keep them safe and to prevent their sharp points doing any harm before they are taken to their final resting place. By showing respect and offering prayers it is hoped that the power and energy of the needle will pass to the owner and make them a better stitcher. Note: while researching this article, I found a lot of conflicting information. For example, while February 8th was the date most frequently given for the festival, December 8th and other dates were also suggested. This may be because the festival is celebrated on different dates at various shrines. Also, Harikuyo was given as the name of the shrine as well as the name of the fesival. If you feel that any of the information given here is incorrect or your have any further information about the Festival of Broken Needles, please leave a comment or email us.

Tachibana

2010-02-01T20:13:00.001Z

In front of the Shishinden in the old Imperial Palace in Kyoto there are two trees. The tree on the left (east) was originally was a plum but a cherry replaced this when the Shishinden was rebuilt in 960 following a fire. The tree on the right (west) is a tachibana, an ornamental orange. The tale of how the tachibana got its name is in the Kojiki, the oldest history book of Japan. Long ago, Emperor Suinin heard tell of a tree whose seed was rumoured to bring immortality and eternal youth when eaten. On hearing this story the Emperor sent one of his men, Tachima-mori, to Tokoyo where the tree was said to grow. It took Tachima-mori ten years and one month to locate the tree and return with the fruit, by which time Emperor Suinin had died. When Tachima-mori learnt of the Emperor’s demise he was so overcome with grief and remorse that he cried everyday until his own death. In tribute to Tachima-mori the fruit was named tachimana. Over time the name became corrupted to tachibana. As well as being associated with longevity, tachibana is thought to bring luck. It is one of the myriad of 'treasures'. As with sakura, tachibana have been breed to improve their flowers rather than their fruit which is inedible. Like other citrus trees the tachibana bears flowers and fruit simultaneously. In all the examples I have seen, the fruit is depicted with either 3 or 5 leaves.

Taisho period (1912-1925), shibori dyed haori - courtesy of Ichiroya

A common treatment of larger motifs is to fill them with patterns and/or other motifs. On this obi, the clouds within the oranges are stitched in a variety of patterns; even the butterfly’s wings are stitched in an elaborate version of basket weave.

Black Shusu Obi - courtesy of Ichiroya

The crest on this uchishik is appliquéd with the outlines and details emphasised by couched gold thread.

Vintage Uchishiki - courtesy of Ichiroya

Japanese embroidery exihibition and demonstration

2010-01-08T15:27:00.004Z

We will be exhibiting at the Stitch and Creative Crafts Show at Manchester Central between the 29th and 30th January. We will have lots of pieces on show and will be demonstrating this wonderful art form throughout all three days. Why not come along and find out more, pick up details of classes, watch the demonstrations, or just say hello.

September 2009 exhibition

Merry Christmas

2009-12-20T10:17:00.002Z

Class number 2

2009-10-30T10:17:00.005Z

Last week we had a four lovely days holding our 2nd full phase class in Japanese embroidery at the Crofters Hotel in Garstang near Preston. A great time was had by all. This time three more advanced stitching friends joined us which was really useful for the students working on their phase 1. Beginners and advanced students were able to compare notes and experiences and were able to support and encourage each other. Big thanks to Carol-Anne, Sue, and Ruth who very happily gave of their time and experiences. Big thanks as well to Denise, our tutor, who supports us all with endless patience (and who brings along lots of goodies to tempt us with!)

Our little group of Japanese embroiderers in the NW is growing slowly but surely. We had one new student starting her phase 1 piece, Bouquet from the Heart of Japan, while the rest were continuing work on their first phase, we also had two brand new students who joined us for the taster class on Saturday and Sunday.

We've confirmed class dates with the hotel for April and October next year - details over on the Gallery. See you there?

Ōgi - Fans

2009-08-23T23:43:00.024+01:00

One of the images of Japan which always comes to mind is that of the fan and as a number of designs from JEC incorporate fans of one kind or another I thought I would do some reading up on the subject. So here you go, a very potted history of the Japanese fan, more reading and websites are at the bottom of the post.

Fans have been used for millennia, whether in the form of a leaf or a beautifully decorated folding fan, hand painted and gilded with gold leaf. Early Japanese fans resemble early Chinese fans and were either one piece rigid fans made from feathers or silk stretched over a round or oval frame or larger ceremonial fans. These rigid fans are known as uchiwa, you can see one of these in the photo below.

Given the fragile nature of fans very few early ones have survived to the present day, but they have been depicted in many ways in fabric, lacquer work, carvings, paintings, to name just a few. Some of these are very detailed and much information can be drawn from these representations. The earliest representation of a fan in Japan is of a large ceremonial type and is dated to the 6th century, it appears in a tomb in Wakamiya. The folding fan appeared early in the development of fans but actual evidence of where it was developed is vague. However, circumstantial evidence points to Japan, and the Chinese give credit to the Japanese. Two types of fans are described in a Japanese dictionary dated 935AD, the uchiwa and ōgi (a generic name for folding fans). Given that a generic name for folding fans had been in use for long enough to appear in a dictionary, they must have been around for some time before 935AD.

A boys kimono decorated with fans (picture courtesy of Ichiroya)

Hiōgi - these types of folding fans are most frequently made from strips of cypress wood. They were the official imperial court fan right through until the 19th century. They are made with about 30 or so wooden 'blades' which are held together with a rivet at the base and either cords or ribbons at the top. These fans were highly decorated and the guard sticks of the fans used by the Empress would be decked with artificial flowers and long flowing cords.

Wedding kimono from Ichiroya decorated with representations of hiōgi fans

Suehiro (wide ended) fans were created in the 15th century and used paper on both sides of the fan sticks, technical problems created by incorporating paper on two sides created the wide ended shape but the shape proved popular and eventually was created deliberately.

Kimono from Ichiroya decorated with suehiro fans

Suehiro - stitched by Carol-Anne Conway, design copyright of JEC

The technical problem of incorporating two leaves of paper was solved also by developing bombori type fans. In this type the guard sticks are formed to bend sharply inwards, when closed this gives the shape of fans we in the west would easily recognise. These fans are often described as suehiro as well.

Kimono from Ichiroya decorated with designs of hiogi fans

If you'd like to find out more about Japanese fans there is a wonderful book called Ōgi, A History of the Japanese Fan, by Julia Hutt and Helene Alexander. It has lots of detailed information and wonderful photographs. ISBN 1-872357-08 3

There are loads of websites out there where you can find out more and also buy fans, here are three to get you started.

The Fan Museum, Greenwich

Japanese fans in Noh drama

Lifstyle Japan - article on Uchiwa

Video of fan making from You Tube

Interesting websites

2009-06-28T11:35:00.008+01:00

While doing some reading for research on future posts I cam across some interesting sites. Thought I would post them here for any readers who are interested. Noh Drama "noh.com is a full of rich information about Noh. You will enjoy photo stories that take you to the center of the Noh stage, reading material that helps you understand everything about Noh, articles that highlight the people who work on front stage or behind the scenes, a list of plays with guiding directories, the stories of Noh masks, and a lot more to come. From beginners to experts, there's always something that catches your eye." An interview from Noh.com - Master Yasujirō Yamaguchi who turned 104 in 2008 has cultivated unsurpassed skills in nearly a century as a master of Nishijin textile, reaching the pinnacle of his craft. He became involved almost exclusively in the creation of Noh costumes nearly 50 years ago, and has made nearly 300 pieces. Kaga embroidery - history, techniques, and examples of Kaga embroidery. Traditional Crafts of Japan - Information from the Association for the Promotion of Traditional Craft Industries, Japan.

Pinks - from an antique design book

A very successful class

2009-05-17T09:49:00.005+01:00

You may remember back in October last year we ran a taster class on Japanese embroidery and following that we advertised a four day phase class and another two day taster course. Well I'm pleased to say that in April at the Crofters Hotel in Garstang (near Preston) five of our original students returned to start their phase one piece, one was doing a pre-phase piece, and we had three new students doing the taster class.

I don't have many photos of the course as I was too busy running around assisting our tutor Denise to take many, so this is just a big thank you to all our ladies who were a joy all week, you all worked very hard and were lots of fun.

Denise, our tutor, and Colleen discuss a technique.

Bouquet from the Heart of Japan - copyright JEC. This version was embroidered by my JE colleague Sue.

We have dates for the next lot of classes in the North West which will follow the same format, all four days for the phase class and the last two days for the taster class - 22nd-25th October 2009 and 22nd-25th April 2010. If you would like more details, costs etc, please get in touch with me or with Denise.

If you'd like to find a list of qualified JEC tutors in your area click here (page down for UK tutors).

To meet us in person and see lots of examples of Japanese embroidery come and visit us at the Stitch and Creative Craft show at Manchester Central (GMEX) at the beginning of September.

Sakura - Cherry Blossom

2009-04-21T18:12:00.016+01:00

While ume was the most popular spring flower during the Nara period (8th century), since the Heian period (794-1185 sakura (cherry blossom) has enjoyed greater popularity. So much so, that for centuries their beauty has been enjoyed and celebrated at Hanami (flower viewing). From mid January to early May sakura bloom throughout Japan but the blossoms only last a week or two so the Meteorological Agency gives nightly updates after the weather forecast to track the sakura zensen (cherry-blossom front) as it moves northward. In modern day Japan, outdoor parties beneath the sakura have become popular. The better known parks, shrines and temples can become crowded with people picnicking, strolling and enjoying the scent as well as the visual display. Some venues hang paper lanterns especially for yozakura (night sakura). Sakura represents spring and new beginnings; it is considered an omen of good fortune and is also an emblem of love and affection. The transient nature of the blossoms, which fall at the height of their beauty before withering, came to represent the samurai warrior who would sacrifice his life for the honour and protection of the emperor. During World War II, Japanese pilots would paint sakura on the sides of their planes or even take branches of the trees with them on missions. Falling cherry petals came to represent the sacrifice of youth. Cherry trees come in a great number of varieties. Most of the wild trees have blossoms with five petals but cultivated varieties can have five, 10, 20 or many, many more petals. The blossoms can be white or any shade of pink imaginable. Sakura are very similar to ume blossom but are easily recognised by the small indented ‘v’ on the edge of each petal. All the techniques used to stitch ume can be used for sakura and like ume, sakura may be stitched with or without branches. One notable difference is that sakura may be depicted with leaves, where as ume never is.

Ume - Plum Blossm

2009-04-09T21:27:00.000+01:00

Japanese arts and crafts are adorned with motifs from nature and the beautiful stylised designs that have evolved from them. These motifs and designs are not merely decorative but convey messages that are easily understood by Japanese people. When we begin our journey with Japanese Embroidery our main concern is learning the stitches and techniques but gradually we also begin to understand the hidden meanings in the designs we are stitching. ***** Plum (ume) blossom is the harbinger of Spring, blooming even while snow still clings to the trees branches. Ume blossoms are often mentioned in Japanese poetry as a symbol of spring. When used in haiku or renga, they are a kigo or season word for early spring. During the Nara period (8th century), the blossom of the ume tree was preferred over the sakura (cherry) blossom, which became popular after the Heian period (794-1185). Ume is one of the elements of the "three friends of winter" (shou-chiku-bai), the others being pine and bamboo, and is associated with courage and endurance.

Shou-Chiku-Bai, Black Shusu Uchikake - courtesy of Ichiroya

Sho-Chiku-Bai and Crane, Vintage Fukusa - courtesy of Ichiroya

The blossoms are associated with the Japanese Bush Warbler (uguisu), and they are depicted together as one of the twelve suits on hanafuda (Japanese playing cards).

Uguisu & Ume, Meiji Black Kimono - courtesy of Ichiroya

In fact the ume tree is more closely related to apricot than to the plums we know in the west and is considered to be a protective charm against evil. For this reason, it is traditionally planted in the north-east of the garden, the direction from which evil is believed to come. The pickled fruit (umeboshi) is sometimes eaten for breakfast to stave off misfortune. The five petaled flowers are so simple in form that even the stylized version, umebachi, is instantly recognisable.

Umebachi, Vintage Fukusa (Back) - courtesy of Ichiroya

Plum blossoms can be stitched in any number of ways. Small flowers are often stitched with either flat or twisted silk in a vertical foundation. Stamen and pollen are frequently added but not always. The blooms can be depicted on branches or on their own but leaves are never included (the ume tree flowers before the leaves appear). Larger designs may be stitched in long and short stitch, or the shape of the blossom may be filled with a geometric design.

Nagoya Obi - courtesy of Ichiroya

Nagoya Obi, close-up - courtesy of Ichiroya

Sometimes the shape of the flower is simply outlined.

Nagoya Obi Bolt - courtesy of Ichiroya - courtesy of Ichiroya

Colour in Japanese Embroidery

2009-03-27T11:04:00.019Z

I've been thinking about colour recently, what colours we wear, stitch with, how we combine them, perception of colour, how our perception of colour can change, and how it is different depending on where we grew up. At the beginning of my Nuido journey I remember discussing colour with my tutor and talking about how different people from different countries perceive colours differently. I didn't really understand what she was trying to explain, well I did in theory, but surely green is green, red is red, and blue is blue. Isn't it? So why would a colour we in the UK would definitely call blue be green in Japan? She recommended a great book by Sadao Hibi, The Colour of Japan. In this the author talks about how different colours are used, and what they represent. It is well worth getting hold of if you want to find out more. It contains large high quality photographs of objects or landscapes each of which is used to describe a colour and its meaning. One photo of fields full of tea bushes contains colours which I would certainly have described as 'blue', but they are tea bushes therefore green, therefore this colour is called green in Japan. This photo helped me to understand the differences in perception of colour. Study of the colour of Japan would take many years to understand fully, and we will always be influenced by the colours, light, seasons, and traditions of the place we grew up so me may never fully understand it all. Here in the UK for example red is linked to danger but in Japan it is linked to the sun. Although I like red and wear and use it a lot it does not have the same resonance for me as it does for a Japanese person because of the traditional meanings. In my reading I have also discovered that sometimes the meaning of a colour can be influenced by the plant the dye comes from, this adds a whole new level of meaning. Plus whichever bit of the plant is used to create the dye may not even be the same colour as the final product so this is really very subtle!! There is a set of books by Katsumi Yumioka which talk about this side of things. There are 4 books in the series up to now all talking about different aspects of colour and all are beautifully illustrated with photos of kimono and obi. Check out the bibliography at the end of this post for the names and details of all the books mentioned. Our study of colour in Japanese embroidery journey is quite subtle, at first we are guided in our choice of colours, as we progress up the phases we can choose to adapt the colours in JEC designs. Over time our sense of colour becomes less European and more Japanese, although we always keep that innate sense of colour that we learn growing up. We do learn what colours represent the different seasons, how the underlying fabric colour can change the colour of the thread, and how the same colour looks different if used twisted or flat. All this is very theoretical of course and the only way to understand is to see examples. So here are some pictures of various pieces by my fellow stitchers which have been stitched in different colour ways. Neither of the pieces is right or wrong, good or bad, they are just different examples. A big thank you goes to (in no particular order), Iris, Marie, Cathy, Jennifer, Susan, Tanya, Denise, and Carol-Anne who have stitched these pieces and allowed me to use their photos.

As always copyright is property of the Japanese Embroidery Center and Kurenai-kai who designed all these lovely pieces and who continue to travel with us on our journey.

Kirigami

Karahana

Himotaba

Resonance Cords

Queen of Flowers

Final Dress Up

Kusudama

Bibliography

By Katsumi Yumioka, all published by Pie Books Kimono and the Colours of Japan -ISBN 4-89444-451-8 Summer Kimonos and the Colours of Japan - ISBN4-89444-531-x Child Kimono and the Colours of Japan - ISBN978-4-89444-607-6 Kimono Sash and the Colours of Japan - ISBN978-4-89444-630-4 By Sadao Hibi, The Colours of Japan - ISBN4-7700-2536-x

Talk on Japanese Embroidery

2009-03-26T11:48:00.003Z

Just a short post today, as you may remember I am a member of the Japan Society North West. The society runs a number of events throughout the year and on 19th April 2009 yours truly will be giving a talk on traditional Japanese embroidery. You can find all the information here on the JSNW website, along with details of all our other events. Why not come along and say hello.

Japanese Embroidery Course

2009-02-10T23:45:00.001Z

Following the success of our first Japanese embroidery taster class in the North West, we are running another taster class and a full Phase 1 class in April 2009. The tutor will be Denise Foster, Authorised Tutor (2008) Japanese Embroidery Center: Kurenai-Kai. Phase class dates: 23/24/25/26th April Taster class dates: 25/26th April Venue: Crofters Hotel, Preston http://www.croftershotel.co.uk/ If you would like more information, including full costs please drop an email to Denise , or to Jane.

The Legend of Takasago

2009-01-16T11:10:00.004Z

Images of the Legend of Takasago are often used at New Year in Japan and I'd intended to post this to wish everyone a happy new year. However, a small accident with the laptop and a glass of pepsi (oops) meant the laptop was out of action so I didn't get chance to complete this post. Since I'd started it I thought I'd finish it, so here we go. The images from Ichiroya are linked back to the specific item so you can find out more.

As with many legends and folk tales in Japan this story is depicted in many different art forms in as many ways and styles. In textiles it can be found dyed, woven, or embroidered. Almost always some version of a pine tree is shown sometimes with other auspicious symbols such as a crane or tortoise.

Silk noren curtain dyed with yuzen technique - courtesy of Ichiroya

Takasago, the legend of the devoted couple is very famous. Their images are often portrayed at weddings, anniversaries, and New Year celebrations. Takasago is the location of the tale, the old man, Jou, and the old woman Uba. In life they are deeply devoted and when they pass away within moments of each other their spirits are transformed into pine trees.

Boy's miyamairi kimono - courtesy of Ichiroya

Jou always to carries a rake and Uba a broom. She sweeps away all sorrow and ill fortune, Jou rakes in the blessings of the past. If you'd like to read more about Uba and Jou check out Conversations with John Marshall, a very interesting site with lots of information about Japanese textiles and associated topics.

Fukusa of chirimen silk with dyed pattern - courtesy of Ichiroya

I've always been drawn to this story and after searching for ages I found the embroidered fukusa below on Ichiroya. Here we don't see Jou and Uba, just the pine tree and the broom and rake which symbolise the couple (I like to think that perhaps they've sneaked off for a cup of cha).

Embroidered fukusa using silk and metallic threads - own collection

It's very simply embroidered using metallic and silk threads. Some padding is used under parts of the trunk and the metallic threads are couched using red silk. The pine needles are stitched very simply with twisted thread in long stitches.

I think the metallic thread must be silver threads, synthetic metallic thread wouldn't have been available when this was stitched, but they have tarnished over the years and now they are a wonderful silvery grey.

The bamboo leaves are stitched using a twisted silk thread. The twisted threads below the bamboo leaves forming the ground are formed from various shades of green twisted together and then couched.

Along side Uba's broom is a fan showing the rising sun. Fans are also auspicious symbols and will form the basis for a post all of their own.

Happy New Year

2009-01-01T11:12:00.005Z

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

MAY 2009 BRING YOU ALL YOU WISH FOR

Copyright Theft

2008-10-07T16:15:00.004+01:00

I found out recently that the Japanese Embroidery Center have been experiencing some problems with copyright theft of their designs. It seems that this has become such a problem that the Center have had to go to the trouble and expense of using special copy resistant paper for the design sheets which go with our pieces. I've thought about this for a few days wondering why people would do this or why anyone who knows about it would condone it and these are my thoughts. It is outrageous (not to mention criminal) that Kurenai-kai, JEC, and all the people past and present who have been involved in bringing Japanese embroidery to the west are being taken advantage of in this way. I have no idea who may be taking part in this horrible behaviour, or how many innocent people are being taken advantage of by being sold these pirated designs, but I really hope they are not connected to JEC in any way. I would like to encourage any Japanese embroidery student or tutor who thinks that they may have been a victim of this criminal behavior to contact JEC and report it. Even if you only suspect your design may be pirated please get in touch with JEC and ask them to check it for you. Lets all join together to support JEC in stamping out this dreadful behaviour.

Magnetic attraction

2008-09-16T14:04:00.007+01:00

One of our Japanese embroidery friends in America posted about these great magnets a couple of weeks ago. They are perfect for holding protective tissue paper onto our JE frames. I was so taken with them that I ordered some to take with me when I next go to class.

If you'd like to order your own check out www.littleputland.com/

Japanese Embroidery Taster Course

2008-09-02T23:02:00.002+01:00

Japanese Embroidery UK are running a weekend taster course at the Crofters Hotel near Preston on 25th & 26th October 2008. If you would like details please send me an email and I will send the full details.

Stitch and Creative Crafts Show - August 2008

2008-08-02T22:38:00.003+01:00

Well it doesn't seem two minutes since we were in Liverpool at Japan Day 2008 and now we are getting ready for the craft show in Manchester. It will take place at the GMEX on 29th-31st of August. Please come along and say hello if you are going to be there. You can find out more about the exhibition here.

We will have lots of pieces on display and will be demonstrating our stitching throughout the day. We are also hoping to announce the details of some taster classes at the event. These will be the first classes in the North West run by our group, so if you fancy having a go at some traditional Japanese embroidery come along and find out more.

Final Dress Up - Phase 8

Kirigami (cut paper) - Phase 2 practice

Japan Day 2008

2008-07-24T17:04:00.005+01:00

Well we had a wonderful time at Japan Day with over 1500 visitors the day was generally very busy. You can see some press coverage of the event at the Japan Society North West website, also there are more photographs in Gallery 3.

Thank you to everyone who came along to say hello and who showed such interest in our work. We were overwhelmed by the interest and by all the lovely things people had to say.

Carol-Anne and Lena deep in conversation with some of our visitors

Sue working on Bouquet from the heart of Japan

Me working on Iris Stream

Carol-Anne and some more of our visitors

Japan Day 2008 - Liverpool

2008-06-03T23:01:00.007+01:00

The Japan Society North West is hosting a Japan Day in Liverpool on the 19th July.

There will be demonstrations of origami, bonsai, ikebana, kimono dressing, and traditional Japanese embroidery of course.

Our stand will host a display of work from a number of students and we will be demonstrating our stitching throughout the day.

Why not come along and say hello - the event is free and you have the chance to win a pair of plane tickets to Japan. For those of you who follow the other blog I'll have Bamboo Circle with me so you can see it in person.

Miyako Odori Kimono

2008-05-23T18:15:00.007+01:00

Melissa over at Mboogiedown, who posts some very interesting information and wonderful photos of the geiko and maiko of Kyoto, has posted recently about the kimono worn by them during Gion Kobu's annual spring dance. There are some great pictures - check out the post, and all the photos, here. I'm not sure if these kimono are dyed, woven, embroidered, or a mixture, but they are lovely and well worth a visit to Melissa's blog. Thank you for posting Melissa.

Kombuin Fukusa - Important Cultural Properties

2008-05-03T20:04:00.015+01:00

From the year 1713 to 1981 the Temple of Kombuin in the Saho foothills of Japan faithfully preserved 31 embroidered fukusa (gift covers) which had covered gifts given by Tokugawa Tsunayoshi (5th of the Tokugawa shoguns - 1860-1709) to his favorite concubine the Lady Zuishun'in. The best craftsmen in Japan were retained to create these fukusa, and they would have covered gifts presented to her on various occasions such as New Year, mid summer, and year end.

We don't know when exactly these covers were created, but we do know that the art of embroidery in Japan reached is height in the Genroku period (1688-1704) so it is likely that they were given during this time. Quite why the covers were kept by the Lady Zuishun'in rather than being returned to the gift giver, as is usual practice, is also a mystery. Perhaps she was such a favorite that she could do as she liked and therefore kept both cover and gift!!

In 1713 Zuishun'in presented the fukusa to the abbess of Kombuin where they were kept for many years. As time went by it became increasingly difficult for the temple to look after the fukusa, and in 1981 after the fukusa were designated Important Cultural Properties they were handed over to the Kyoto National Museum where they could be carefully preserved.

For students of Japanese embroidery these fukusa are a fabulous resource, the colours and stitching are so well preserved that we can study them in order to improve our own work. And of course we can see how techniques have changed over the years.

The black silk has suffered degeneration over the years due to the chemical content of the dye.

Modern copies of these works stitched by students of Kurenai-kai were on display at the World Exhibition in Cambridge in 2007 - a CD of the exhibition is available which features all of the fukusa exhibited.

For those of us not lucky enough to live within easy visiting distance of the Kyoto National Museum there is a wonderful book on the Kombuin fukusa. Most of the text is in Japanese although it does contain a short introduction and list of plates in English. It's a large format book (about A3)the photographs are fabulous, one per page so also large format, and include great close ups of the stitching. It's very expensive (about £300!), but is well worth it if you can find the money. My friends over at Art Garage sometimes have copies, the number is ISBN4-87949-516-7.

I'm stitching an adaptation of one of these fukusa for my Phase 9 piece, check out my other blog.

Shibori - tie dye technique

2008-04-04T10:26:00.007+01:00

Another post on fabric, this time a type of dying technique known as shibori. We often represent this in our Japanese embroidery, the photo below is a shibori cherry blossom from my phase 2 practice piece. Even though this is a beautiful technique, it in no way represents the amount of time and skill that goes into creating a shibori kimono.

This incredible shibori furisode was on Ichiroya quite a while ago, I wanted to buy it so much but someone else got there before me. It must have taken hundreds of hours to make. This is all really by way of saying that if you're interested in Japanese fabrics there are some very interesting videos by Narablog on Youtube.

Types of fabric

2008-03-29T00:02:00.002Z

I wish there were some way to add touch to blogs as I'd like to talk about the kinds of fabrics we use to stitch on in this post, and it would be nice if you could feel what they were like.

The silks we use to stitch on are the same as those used to make kimono or obi. They come in different weights and can be dyed or decorated in various ways before we start our stitching. Some of the fabrics used by the Japanese Embroidery Center are dyed or woven for especially their designs, check out the link above to their site for some examples.

Great skill is needed to choose the correct weight, type, and colour of fabric which will suit the design. For example if the fabric is too fine to support all the stitching, the fabric will buckle and warp when removed from the frame and many hours of work will have been wasted.

Below are listed a few of the types of silks used for our Japanese embroidery (this isn't a full list):
Habutae - a kimono lining fabric which has no pattern. Available in a variety of thicknesses but we use only the thickest. It can be dyed before use.

Tsumugi - this silk originated with farmers who made use of cocoons left over after they had sold their best silk to market. They collected the floss from the cocoons, span (tsumugi) it by hand into thread and wove kimono for themselves. Tsumugi is generally only used for informal kimono, but it has a lovely surface texture for embroidery. This link will take you to a bolt of tsumugi silk at Ichiroya, or check out the Forest Wisdom design on the link to JEC above.

Chirimen - this is a silk crepe fabric, it comes in different weights and can be used for both kimono or obi. Chirimen at Ichiroya. This fabric is often used for designs featuring fuzzy effect because the weft valley lines are easy to see.

Shioze - this silk is woven in a way which creates more distinct weft vally lines than on chirimen. The Cherry Dawn design from JEC is stitched on shioze.

Shusu - has a very smooth, shiny surface, this fabric is substantial enough to use for designs using a lot of metallic threads. I've only seen this in a black (but it may come in other colours) and it is generally used for our phase 4 piece Karahana. However Carol-Anne from 'Threads Across the Web' is using a red shioze for her phase 4.

Nishijin - in this fabric dyed silk threads and thin gold leaf strips are used. It creates a strong, rich fabric used for the most expensive obi. Bamboo Circle is being stitched on this type of fabric. The picture is an extreme close up of the Bamboo Circle fabric, the gold strips form the weft of the fabric.
Ro - a lightweight fabric used for summer kimono. In ro a space is left in the weft of the fabric forming horizontal bands. For our embroidery it is generally used for more advanced designs. Check out Falling Stars on the JEC site.

Traditional Japanese Crafts

2008-02-24T23:53:00.005Z

For those readers who may be interested in seeing some videos of traditional Japanese crafts check out the Tokyo Tourism Info site.

There are 40 sections of different crafts, not all have videos, but those that do are fascinating.

The crafts are very wide ranging, weaving, yuzen dying, glass ware, hair ornaments, embroidery, and many more.

Embroidered obi from my collection

Meiji Period Fukusa

2008-01-25T22:14:00.001Z

This supreme fully embroidered fukusa has just arrived from Ichiroya, it dates from the Meiji period (1868-1912) or possibly a little earlier. It features a Houraisan (an imaginary island on the back of a turtle), a crane, and treasures.
It must have been a treasured possession and been very well looked after, there are a couple of slight frays in the fabric, but the the embroidery is in perfect condition. I was very lucky to get this, pieces of this kind don't come up very often and they are usually snapped up.
It measures about 25 x 26 inches, it is made of navy shusu silk and is backed with orange silk.

Craft Show

2008-01-01T18:06:00.000Z

Japanese Embroidery UK will be exhibiting at the Stitch & Creative Crafts Show at Manchester Central (GMEX) from 1st to 3rd February 2008.

Please come along and say hello if you are planning a visit, we'd love to see you.

Hoitsu Scroll - summer, designed by the Japanese Embroidery Center

More details have now been added to the organisers site, including a list of exhibitors, find out more here

Hand made needles

2007-12-11T19:36:00.000Z

In this post I'd like to talk briefly about the needles we use in traditional Japanese embroidery.

There are three types of needles; hand made needles with large eyes which are used to stitch both flat and twisted silk; hand finished needles used for very fine threads or couching; and a very much larger needle used for lacing the fabric to the frame.

Whenever needles are not being used they are kept in our needle felt. This 100% wool felt contains natural lanolin which helps protect the steel needles from the elements. Even when just putting the needles down for a moment, perhaps to cut another piece of thread, we are encouraged to stick them into the felt which helps keep them safe. The needles are so small and are quite expensive so loosing them can put quite a hole in the pocket.

It can be quite hard to tell some of the needle sizes apart so as you can see above I've stuck a label on my needle felt and always make sure that the needles go back where they came from.

This picture shows various needles, from left to right we have; a size 6 crewel needle; then size 10, 9, & 7 hand made needles; then a size 5 hand finished needle; then the lacing needle.
It is possible to see here how much shorter the Japanese needles are from ordinary embroidery needles.

Close up of needle eyes. In this picture it is easy to see the big difference between standard embroidery needles and needles used for traditional Japanese embroidery.

The large eyes on these needles have two effects, they help the flat silk spread out so it lays much flatter on the surface of the fabric, and for metallic threads they make a larger hole through which real gold thread can be pulled without shredding the gold from the core.

Different sizes of needles are used for different sizes of thread; size 10 (second from left) can be used for 4T (4 into 1 twist), a 3F (3 strands of silk), or #1 or #2 gold; size 7 (fourth from left) can be used for a 1F thread; size 5 (at right) is used for couching or a .5 thread.

How to wear kimono DVD

2007-11-20T14:42:00.000Z

Our friends at Ichiroya have just released their first DVD, here is the information. "This is a KIMONO dressing DVD made as a guide to wear a kimono and tie an obi for yourself. The DVD includes the following information:how to wear a yukata + tie a Bunko obi, how to tie a Kaino kuchi (for men's kaku-obi), how to wear a homongi kimono and tie a Nijudaiko obi, how to tie a Fukurasuzume obi bow for Furisode (a fancy obi bow for a formal kimono). To tie a fukurasuzume, you need someone to help you but for other direction, they are meant to make it possible to do it for yourself by seeing the DVD. The printed direction with illustration is included in this DVD also. A narration is in English by a professional narrator- and we are sure the DVD will help you enjoy wearing a kimono and tieing an obi." The DVD costs just under £14 ($28), to find out more or order click here.

Hoitsu scroll - inspiring work at the world exhibition

2007-11-16T16:57:00.000Z

The 2007 world exhibition is due to finish this Sunday (18th November) and I would recommend anyone who has an interest in embroidery or Japanese art to visit, it is more that worth it. There are many wonderful pieces on display but I would like to talk here about the Hoitsu scroll which has been adapted and stitched by professionals at Kurenai-kai in Japan. The original scroll (housed at the Tokyo National Museum) was painted by Sakai Hoitsu a Rimpa artist from the Edo period and consists of two seven metre sections each of which uses seasonal flowers, plants, birds, and insects to represent two of the four seasons. Because of the difficulty in framing up a seven meter piece of silk for stitching the staff of Kurenai-kai decided to split the design and stitch four pieces each covering one season. At the exhibition the complete work is displayed in one of the exhibition spaces in the Kaetsu Centre, not hung as a scroll, but rolled out on long tables and as you walk along the plants change with the season. It is not simply that one scroll has summer or spring plants in no particular order, in fact the plants and flowers move into one another as in a real garden, early spring plants move into mid and late spring then into early summer and so into the rest of the year. For myself it was wonderful to see the piece in person, I have just started stitching a section extracted from the summer scroll and although I have a colour picture it was amazing to see the original close enough to make out the individual stitches. You can follow my progress either in the gallery or in my personal blog. I’m unable to post any pictures, but for those of you who might like more information there are two short articles in Nuido, the magazine produced by JEC, which go into the background and production of the piece in more detail. Contact JEC and ask for the issues for Fall 2005 and Winter 2006, back issues cost about $5. Also available is a CD of the 2007 exhibition which has images of the scroll and many other pieces. I’d like to take this opportunity to thank some of the staff involved in producing this wonderful piece; Yoshihiro Yamashita san, Chief Professional of the Kurenai-kai workshop (if you visit the exhibition you will be able to meet Yamashita san in person); Sumie Yamashita san, Chief of the Design Department; Kiyoko Uematsu san, Professional stitcher; and of course all the other dedicated staff at both Kurenai-kai and JEC who made production of this piece possible. Thanks must also go to all those who helps raise the funds to have the scroll professionally mounted.

World Exhibition, November 7th-18th, 2007

2007-09-28T12:21:00.000+01:00

The Japanese Embroidery World Exhibition is an event co-sponsored by the Japanese Embroidery Center (JEC) and Kurenai-Kai, Ltd. of Japan. Held every four years in a new world city, works are put on display from the JEC and Kurenai-Kai workshops, as well as by students from the US, Japan, Canada, UK, Australia, New Zealand, and other nations across the globe.

The World Exhibition will be held at the Kaetsu Centre in Cambridge and JEC will be renting the entire facility, including foyer, exhibition rooms, classrooms, and lecture hall. They plan to hold classes which will enable stitchers from all over the world to embroider together.
From Japan, Kurenai-Kai members have reproduced thirty-one stunningly gorgeous Kombuin Fukusa to be exhibited at the World Exhibition. Pieces such as Fan Screen, Flower Screen, Silent Communication, Crane series, etc., will also be on display.

Their hope is that stitchers from all over the world will gather in Cambridge, and share the spirit of Nuido all together. We look forward to having as many JEC members as possible participating with their friends and families in this special event.

For more information about the exhibition visit the JEC website

The embroidery shown here is not one of the display pieces, it is the companion design of 'Birds of Peace' (below) called 'Orchid' and is one of a series of small designs from JEC which I have stitched. Janey

How Japanese gold threads are made

2007-09-08T15:14:00.000+01:00

Our friends Ichiro and Yuka Wada who run Ichiroya send a regualar newsletter to all their customers and friends which contain interesting information about Japanese life, art, culture, and/or crafts. One of their recent newsletters was about how Japanese gold thread were made, I thought this would be of interest to readers following on from our previous post about stitching with gold thread and they have kindly given permission to reproduce it here. The links go to sites which are in Japanese but the pictures are interesting. "As same as other handicraft items, there are two kinds of gold threads, one is made with traditional technique and another is made with modern industrial technique. Traditional gold thread is made of real gold leaf. Here is the Japanese page about making gold threads. www.nishijin.or.jp/ori/tech_kinshi.html His making process is: ( you can see the images of these processes.) 1) Prepare very thin Japanese paper(washi). 2) Coat urushi on it with scraper. 3) Wait urushi drying. 4) Pick up very thin gold leaf with bamboo tweezers carefully. A gold leaf is 11cmx11cm (4.3in x 4.3in), and it only has 1/10000mm thickness. 5) Put it carefully on the urushi coated paper. Urushi bond the gold leaf to paper.Gold leaf is too thin, and wrinkles are easily made. And this process can't be retried. So this process is extremely difficult, and it takes more than 10 years to master this process. 6) Paper becomes 'hira-haku' (gold leaf paper), and dry it one or two days in 'muro' (urushi dry room) in basement. Urushi drying is not missing water process, but one kind of chemical change. It drys with getting humidity, so 'muro' is basement. 7) Cut the 'hira-haku' very finely. Cut 3cm-1.2in width to 60-100 strips! One width is only 0.3mm-0.12in !! In Meiji 25 (1892), hand-cut-equipment was invented, but before then craftman cut with only knives! This strips are used for weaving obi and other kinran fabric. 8) Wrap a thread with this strips, it becomes 'kinshi'(gold thread). 9) For core threads, yellowish silk threads are used. However, it is the top class kinshi, and 'jinken'(rayon) is often used for usual ones.You can get more precise image about how wrap a thread with gold strips here. www.k-taikodai.jp/kinsi.htm Photos of the third column are this real kinshi's.After we know the details of kinshi, we understand why some kinran fabrics have incredible fine pattern and exceptionally soft touch, and some have stiff and textured touch. Quality of kinran is determined by the quality of kinshi, and it is determined by the gold purity, slimness of gold leaf and base paper and quality of core threads." With thanks to Ichiro and Yuka Wada - visit their blog at www.ichiroya.com/blog/

Metallic thread without core

2007-08-29T10:01:00.000+01:00

In Japanese embroidery metallic threads are numbered according to their thickness, #1 is very fine, while #8 is quite thick. Only #1 and #2 metallics are considered fine enough to use for stitching, any above #3 thickness are couched using a fine silk thread.

Three thicknesses of gold thread, from top to bottom: #8, #3, and #1

As most embroiderers out there will know metallic threads are composed of a gold or silver section wound in a spiral around a fabric core. Sometimes for very fine work in Japanese embroidery it is necessary to use a thread which is even finer than the #1 shown above, in order to achieve this the core is removed from a #1 thread.

To do this first cut a length of thread and holding it towards one end gently untwist it so that the core is exposed.

Untwisting the core

Once you get hold of the core hold the metallic gently and, pulling on the core, gradually ease the metallic section down the core and off the other end.

Pulling the core

Once the core is completely removed the metallic section which is left can be combined with a silk thread (1/2 or 3/4 of a strand) and used to stitch fine motifs giving them just a hint of gold or silver.

From top to bottom; core of #1 metallic, #1 gold without core, #1 gold with core

Treasures - Takarazukushi

2007-08-10T11:24:00.000+01:00

A number of motifs in Japanese embroidery have symbolic meanings, this blog article covers those known as takarazukushi or ‘treasures’.

Sometimes a number of treasures will be used, as on Michinaga which can be seen in the phase 6-9 gallery of our gallery, sometimes only one or two. Treasures may be combined with other ‘happy’ motifs which are used to reinforce the message of the design; pine, bamboo, plum, tortoise, or cranes (amongst others) are often seen.

The treasures listed below are not a complete list, indeed the meanings of some items have been lost, and occasionally a new treasure will be added. Master Tamura of JEC Atlanta has included spools of silk as a treasure in some of his designs, these are the Japanese embroiderer’s treasures.

There are seven traditional treasures; the bottomless purse, mallet, magic sedge hat, ball (sometimes shown with flames), straw rain cape, balance-scale weight, and the storehouse key. Some of the other commonly used treasures are; rhinoceros horn, silk, cross, cloves, and scrolls.

Swinging the magic mallet will make dreams come true
The hat and rain cape make the wearer invisible
The magic ball will grant wishes when rubbed
In order to protect their gold from theft samurai would have it cast into the shape of a balance weight which, because of it’s symmetrical shape, meant that no part of it could be stolen without detection
Scrolls represent the value of knowledge
Rhinoceros horn was valued as a medicine
Silk, originally rare and very expensive
The cross is used as a symbol of expansiveness
Cloves were valued for their rarity and its many uses as a sent, flavouring, dyestuff, and medicine
The key represents a kura, a stone storehouse built to protect valuables from fire or theft
Interlocking circles form a ‘shippo’ pattern often seen in Japanese embroidery and can be used as shorthand for treasures.

Takarabune means 'treasure ship'. It is a symbol of good tidings and blessing to come, it is normally shown carrying a cargo of treasures.

The embroidered Meiji fukusa (top) and vintage woven fukusa shown here are from www.ichiroya.com. Many thanks to Ichiro san and Yuka san for allowing them to be used. To see other items which are decorated with treasures visit their website and do a search for treasures.

For more information John Marshall has an interesting article on his website.

Japanese Embroidery Gallery

2007-08-02T16:22:00.000+01:00

I've been doing some updating on our companion gallery over the last couple of weeks and there are a number of new photographs.

Queen of Flowers, stitched by Jennifer Orchard

Suehiro, stitched by Carol-Anne Conway

Seeds of Nuido, a work in progress, stitiched by the author.

If you'd like to take a look at the complete gallery you can find it here.

All designs are copyright of the JEC.

Welcome

2007-07-26T17:35:00.000+01:00

Well, this is the first post on our new Japanese Embroidery blog.

This blog has been created to act as a companion to our other sites and will, I hope, gradually fill up with interesting information.

I'm still figuring out how this all works so bear with me if this all happens a bit slowly.

The piece shown here is called 'Birds of Peace' and is one of the many designs from the Japanese Embroidery Center, Atlanta (JEC). There will be more of the centre posted in the future I am sure.

You can find out lots more information about Japanese Embroidery by visiting the sites in the links list. If you know of more let us know and we'll get them listed.

It isn't the intention to post lots of images here - that's what the gallery is for, but we're always happy to answer questions so please get in touch.